Made from one of the best vintages ever on Long Island, and backed by Roman Roth, the winemaking talent behind Wolffer Estate, Shinn Estate and Roanoke. For the most part, it delivers with notes of exotic spice, spearmint and cherry in the nose, and a supple, smoked meat and herbal character whose parts come together with elegance. ——S.K.(2/1/2007)—— 86