0 This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in 85% new oak, and it shows the essence of Oakville in its dry, tannic, ripe and complex identity. It would be hard to exaggerate the excellence of the blackberries, black currants, black cherries, dark chocolate and oak flavors, which have a Christmas-pudding-like headiness. A hint of raisin suggests it approaches overripeness, yet it maintains superb control. The tannins and overall balance should help this age for many years, but it can also be consumed now.

With this bottling Goldschmidt runs with the big Oakville dogs. Classic, a dry, tremendously concentrated and oaky Cab with massive flavors of blackberry tart, cassis, anise, cocoa and cedar. So soft, you can drink it now, but the complex tannin structure and balance permit it to age for many years. The source is a tiny vineyard west of the Silverado Trail. ——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 96

This is a much more oaky version of the winery’s Game Ranch regular bottling, which was released two years ago. The original release was very ripe in fruit but very tannic. This one’s the same, but plastered with new oak.——S.H.(10/1/2008)—— 86