The quirky 2005 Dolcetto d-Alba Santo Stefano di Perno offers well-articulated aromatics and flavors, but also prominent herbal, green notes that are somewhat distracting. Younger vines and a higher percentage of clay in the soils contribute to this wine's personality. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2009. Mauro Mascarello is one of the few producers who prefers his 2003 Barolos to his 2001s as he finds they have more power and intensity while also maintaining finesse and a sense of classicism. The wines certainly have more power, but I am not sure I would agree they have more finesse. In any event, his 2003 Barolos are among the best of the vintage, in particular the Santo Stefano di Perno and Monprivato. I also tasted the 2003 Ca- d- Morissio from barrel a few months ago, and it is shaping up to be a remarkably rich wine very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Mascarello hasn't decided when he will release the 2001 Ca- d- Morissio, but it, too, is promising, as is his entire range of 2004 Barolos.Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2003 Dolcetto d’Alba Santo Stefano is easier to categorize, richly fruity, full, substantial but supple as well and with more polish and sweetness than the Dolcetto Bricco. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404