The Barbera d’Alba Superiore Santo Stefano di Perno is a stunner in 2007. Violets, red berries, sage, rosemary and licorice meld together seamlessly in this hugely enjoyable, gorgeous Barbera. In this vintage the Santo Stefano di Perno possesses breathtaking balance, well-defined aromatics and a prominent streak of minerality that keeps the ripeness of the fruit in check. This is first-class juice. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello is best known for his Baroli, but his entry-level wines also merit considerable attention. The wines are always released on the late side, so finding the time to review them can be a challenge, hence their inclusion in this issue. I also had a chance to taste Mascarello’s 2007 Baroli from cask and they are living up to the immense promise I sensed when I first sampled them a few years ago.Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2005 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Santo Stefano di Perno is pure and focused, with notable detail in its fruit and a transparent, almost weightless personality. A pretty note of sweetness carries through all the way to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Mauro Mascarello is one of the few producers who prefers his 2003 Barolos to his 2001s as he finds they have more power and intensity while also maintaining finesse and a sense of classicism. The wines certainly have more power, but I am not sure I would agree they have more finesse. In any event, his 2003 Barolos are among the best of the vintage, in particular the Santo Stefano di Perno and Monprivato. I also tasted the 2003 Ca’ d’ Morissio from barrel a few months ago, and it is shaping up to be a remarkably rich wine very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Mascarello hasn’t decided when he will release the 2001 Ca’ d’ Morissio, but it, too, is promising, as is his entire range of 2004 Barolos.Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484