The 2008 Allobroges, a three-vineyard blend of 62% Syrah, 23% Mourvedre, and 15% Grenache aged for 24 months in 36% new French and American oak. Inviting aromas of underbrush, brier, smoked meat, lavender, black cherries, and blueberries inform the nose of a spicy, ripe, forward, easy-going wine built for pleasure. Drink this crowd-pleaser over the next 6 years. It is a very good value. Gilbert Cellars is a family owned and operated winery that began in 2004. Last year’s collection was impressive and the new releases are a notable follow-up.Tel. (509) 249-9049; www.gilbertcellars.com

A sturdy, substantial, Rhone-inspired red. The goofy name? The winery says it refers to a Celtic people inhabiting the Rhone Valley in the days of the Roman empire. This is tasty juice, tangy and spicy, with sharp pine and herb accents, underscored with wild berry and plenty of acid. The Celts would buy it by the case.——P.G.(8/1/2009)—— 88