Gifford Hirlinger's 2008 Petit Verdot Estate contains 20% Merlot in its blend and was aged for 23 months in 50% new French oak. Notes of pain grille, pencil lead, violets, and assorted black fruits inform the nose of a relatively forward, surprisingly elegant wine with ample spicy black fruit flavors, good depth, and moderate length. This tasty effort, while approachable now, has enough structure to evolve for 1-2 years and should drink well through 2018. Tel. (509) 301-9229; www.giffordhirlinger.com

All estate-grown fruit, blended with 11% Merlot, which seems to soften up the tannins a bit. This is aromatic and complex, weaving together scents of cassis, licorice, tobacco and smoke. Flavors follow, with plenty of black cherry fruit in the concentrated core.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 89