From select cool vineyards, an intensely aromatic wine, with no sign of oak to hide the pretty fruit. Apricot and orange blossom, litchi, candied peaches, crushed brown spices, honey and vanilla flavors drink off-dry, but the wine is nervy and steely enough to satisfy dry wine fanatics, especially on a warm afternoon. Best Buy. ——J.M.(6/1/2002)—— 86