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The 2006 Chardonnay Smaragd Schlossgarten smells of fresh apple and raw almond. A faintly milky cast and subtle apple pip and nutty bitterness in no way detract from a satisfying core of fresh fruit, overlain also with a hint of honey. This well-concentrated Chardonnay finishes with herbal nutty, and faintly spicy pungency and piquancy, suggestive of low-level botrytis.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Hirtzberger’s 2005 Chardonnay Smaragd Schlossgarten smells of apple, flowers, and toasted almond. Attractively creamy and rich on the palate, it nonetheless is persistently juicy and bright at the same time, finishing with apple, almond, and a savory tang of sea salt. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700