Simple and concocted, with layers of sweet, caramelized oak, pineapple jam and buttered popcorn. Good acidity makes it bracing. Lots of people will like it, but it needs to be drier and more interesting at this price.——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 85

Good and rich, but tastes too oaky, with the pineapple, nectarine and peach flavors swamped by vanilla, caramel and butterscotch. Other than that, there’s a fine, crisp minerality to the finish.——S.H.(4/1/2010)—— 86

Pricey, but very fancy, with a metallic minerality that lifts it above the ordinary. After that bite of cold steel, you get an infusion of grilled pineapples, and lush, exotic papaya, while oak adds rich layers of buttered toast and honey. Delicious and complex. ——S.H.(10/1/2009)—— 93