The 2020 Cyclo feels quite different from the 2019 I tasted next to it. It comes from three plots of old vines that have a majority of Tempranillo and some 10% other traditional varieties that are intermixed in the field in the old vineyards. This is perfumed, expressive, floral and extroverted, with much better integrated oak and a velvety and juicy mouthfeel. I don't know what happened between 2019 and this 2020, but this has a very different profile—a lot more elegant, complex and balanced. It's slightly lower in alcohol, 14.5%, and is ripe without excess. 10,000 bottles were filled in October 2022.

The red blend 2019 Cyclo was produced with Tempranillo and some10% between Garnacha, Cari?ena, Viura and Albillo. It fermented with full clusters in concrete and indigenous yeasts, foot trodden, and it matured in oak barrels . It's quite ripe and heady at 15% alcohol with generous oak, spice and smoke and quite a lot of tannin. It's still tannic. Give it some more time. 10,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2021.

Given the unusual vintage, the blend of the 2017 Cyclo is also unusual: 85% Tempranillo, 10% between Garnacha, Cari?ena, Viura and Albillo, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Pinot Noir. There are very ripe aromas and some herbal hints, abundant toast and smoke and a medium to full-bodied palate with plenty of tannins. It finishes dry. 10,000 bottles.

The 2016 Cyclo is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and dollops of Garnacha, Viura, Albillo and Merlot from three different vineyards. It has ripe black fruit and integrated spicy oak, and the palate shows some restrained and fine-grained, chalky tannins. 9,989 bottles were filled in September 2018.

The 2009 Cyclo comes from three vineyards harvested at different time, the Tempranillo blended with Garnacha and white Tempranillo and fermented in concrete vats and aged for 17 months in barrel including more used barrels than the Torre Albeniz. It has a very natural nose with good delineation, blossoming with blackberry leaf, cold stone, a touch of heather and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, plenty of black berries, a hint of raspberry and subtle tobacco and graphite notes to the almost Bordeaux-like finish. This is excellent. Drink now-2020. The hawks were watching when I visited Bodegas Torremilanos. The birds of prey are part of the ecosystem that dovetails into their biodynamic viticulture, keeping pests away without resorting to pesticides and so forth. The family purchased the property in 1975, when wine was worth a pittance, so much so that the father of present winemaker Ricardo Penalba had to pretend that he was buying the land to turn it into a quarry! The vineyards have been expanded over the years so that there are presently 119 hectares under vine. This is an address where new ideas are being put into practice apropos unorthodox grape varieties and vinification techniques, including experimenting with concrete eggs and natural wine. “How do you know unless you try?” is the maxim at Finca Torremilanos. How refreshing to hear that. While they were not necessarily the best wines I tasted during my trip, I admire someone willing to take risks and experiment, just as I encouraged in my introduction. The result is an interesting portfolio that is worth seeking out and following. I spent an afternoon with Ricardo tasting through his portfolio from Ribera del Duero. Since I had the time, I agreed to taste his Cava and VDT wines that comes under the Penalba Lopez label, but will include them here for convenience sake. Importer: Grapes of Spain. www.grapesofspain.com