The last time we saw this iconic wine was in 2013 (a vintage that earned a perfect score). Following up on that success, the Elio Grasso 2015 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is a generous, open-knit Nebbiolo that has much of the warmth and sunshine locked deep within its core. The bouquet reveals broad brush aromas of black fruit, blackberry preserves, smoky tar and baked plum. With 7,000 bottles made, this Riserva is smooth and velvety in texture. There's no reason why it can't hold until the mid-century mark.

If any Italian wine from this decade can undeniably be called a reserve, it is the 2013 Barolo Riserva Rüncot. This wine was not made in 2011, 2012, 2014, 2017 nor 2018. (The 2013 vintage will be released commercially in February of 2020, and this is the wine's first official review.) Gianluca Grasso holds the precious bottle I tasted from as if it were a newborn child. This vintage saw a relatively long growing season, and it offers greater fruit density, structure and acidity than the last edition that was made, the 2010. There is more vibrancy here and a true sense of energy brimming right there under the surface. The wine goes through 45 days of extended maceration post-fermentation and then a solid seven years of aging between oak and bottle. The resulting Riserva Rüncot has a stunning bouquet that is all violets and prunes, followed by a classic palate of minerals, herbs, cinnamon and delicate wafts of white truffle. This wine tells a story from nose to finish, like a flashing film reel. Fewer than 5,000 bottles were made. This is a crowning achievement for the hard-working and passionate Grasso family, led by father Elio and son Gianluca. Congratulations.

This is such a gorgeous wine. The 2010 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is undeniably beautiful and profound. It's almost hard to know where to start. The wine's appearance is velvety and rich. The bouquet opens to a long playlist of distinct characteristics that immediately remind you of the Langhe. You'll recognize wild cherry with licorice, white truffle, balsam herb and toasted hazelnut. These tones are delivered with just the right intensity. The are compelling, but never overwhelming. The finish offers an exciting succession of tiny detailing. The wine moves over the palate with silky intensity, imparting mineral tones of flint and campfire ash along the way. The persistence can be counted in many long, pleasurable minutes.

The 2008 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is an exceptional wine that is only made in the best years. It was produced in 2008, 2010 and 2013. The wine undergoes a 40-day maceration time with four years in oak and one more year of bottle aging. The results are sublime and generous. Riserva Rüncot opens to a beautifully tempered and expressive bouquet that exhibits elements of wild berry, forest floor, candied fruit, licorice, cola and dried ginger. The balsamic signature is particularly beautiful and elegant. Smooth and silky tannins denote the mouthfeel and carry the wine forward over the palate. This is one of the top releases from Piedmont this year.

Elio Grasso did not produce the Barolo Riserva in 2005, 2009 or 2011. However, you can enjoy the stunning 2007 Barolo Riserva Runcot shortly. Super-low yields in the vineyard (down to three clusters per vine) make for a wine of enormous intensity and beauty. The whole effect is truly spectacular. Soaring aromas of dark fruit, licorice, tar, pressed rose, lavender, garden herb, dried mint and brimstone develop momentum and power with each swirl of the glass. Nebbiolo-s trademark structure holds the wine together, but the beautiful 2007 vintage has added its part with extra layers of softness and richness. This is pure pleasure. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038. Elio Grasso and his son Gianluca have created one of the finest vineyards and wineries in the Langhe today. The energy shared by this dynamic father and son team demonstrates that no ambition is too far stretched or lofty - as long as there is a will for hard work. Investments made over the last decade include a state-of-the-art winery complete with an underground cellar, buried 45 meters below the vineyards. Recently, Gianluca says his passion has turned to vineyard work: "The point is not being the greatest wine producer. It is to be the greatest producer of grapes." Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (800) 862-4585; Admirality Beverage Co., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 265-3555