Classic Duckhorn, which is to say, dry, tannic, elegantly structured and expensive. The winemaker succeeded, in this so-so year, in crafting a rich, nuanced wine of considerable interest. It may not be a longterm ager, but it’s delicious now, with deep flavors of blackberries, red currants, violets, cocoa and smoky oak, balanced with the prettiest acidity. Grows better in the glass as it breathes.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 94