There’s good deep fruit and licorice and smoke accents in this wine, but they are overrun by rampant oak that shows early and continues full-blown across the palate and onto the finish. There’s weight, but not the depth or dimension we wanted. Tart raspberry flavors and smoked-meat accents strive to hold their own against the toasty oak tide through the long close.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 86