Originating in a parcel of ancient vines in the La Rochelle vineyard (not far from the windmill) that he recently purchased from the Lameloise family after long having had a contract for the fruit, Piron’s 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Les Vignes du Vieux Bourg was raised half in tank and half in older barriques. Blackberry and blueberry are accompanied by cooling notes of mint and sage, leading into a lush, long, yet subtly stony palate, with low-toned finishing notes of carob and dark chocolate. Less exuberant, striking, or mouth-watering than the Piron Morgons or Chenas of the vintage, this nonetheless rich wine may well need more time to show its true meddle, and I would expect it to keep well in bottle for 4-6 years. (The 2008 rendition – which was bottled last November; labeled as Domaine Piron & Lameloise; and which I tasted for the first time this year – picked up a slightly green, resinous, rancid cast from the used barriques in which it was exclusively raised, and even an abundance of sweet fruit behind that could not entirely redeem it in my view.)Dominique Piron – for more about whom consult my report in issue 184 – did not begin harvesting his 2009s until September 7 and then worked at it for two weeks (even though his crop was radically reduced by the hail that afflicted nearly every commune in which he grows grapes). Despite the warm weather and reduced crop, only a few of Piron’s individual lots – and none of his finished blends – exceeded 14% alcohol. He segregated an unprecedented number of different Morgons from 2009, but this isn’t merely a case of his next-door neighbor Jean-Marc Burgaud’s practices rubbing off: the distinctive quality of Piron’s five cuvees justifies their number – indeed, this represents far and away the finest Piron collection I have tasted (granting that the assembled wines were still all in tank when I visited in April) and a confirmation that this is among the region’s outstanding, top value-delivering addresses.Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079

There's a suppleness to this spiced red, mixing lightly chewy tannins and understated acidity with the dark blackberry, damson plum, dried cranberry, sandalwood and cedar notes. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. -AN

An elegant red, with layers of herbes de Provence and exotic spice accenting the pure raspberry, blackberry and black cherry fruit flavors. It's creamy, with a lingering spice and smoke finish. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. -AN