Humbrecht insists he was amazed at just how much acidity and ripeness the cool summer, warm dry September, and attack of noble rot and shriveling combined to concentrate in his 2004 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive. At 9% alcohol, 93 grams of residual sugar, and with extreme 12 grams (tartaric) acidity by Alsace standards, this delicate yet almost piercing essence of Riesling plays more by Germanic rules. Lime, tangerine, nectarine, honey, and subtle smokiness usher in an explosively citric and unctuously honeyed palate display, and the finish nearly threatens to draw blood. One can't say that this is hugely complex as yet, but these are early days for such a wine, which I would not revisit for at least five years and plan on holding for at least two decades.Olivier Humbrecht compares his 2004s with 1992. These were the two most copious vintages of recent times, delivering truly dry wines with quite high acidity. Although he characterized 2004 as more precocious than 2005, Humbrecht kept harvesting through early November, insisting that this was only possible due to his stringent, biodynamic viticultural practices and consequent generally healthy fruit. Humbrecht insists too that he did not seek botrytis, as rain was rendering noble rot nearly impossible. But it certainly seems sometimes as if botrytis sought out him! One price for his protracted harvest was elevated alcohol, which some wines struck me as hard-pressed to gracefully support; and acid levels too occasionally reached extremes. Overall, in fact, I have never tasted such a wide rage of quality nor so many unusually distinctive and at times downright inscrutable wines at this address as those of 2004. Two thousand five, relates Humbrecht, brought ample botrytis, especially with Pinot Gris, but later ripeness, again with formidable acid and extract levels thanks to the cool, well-watered August. Nearly all of the Riesling musts fermented dry. Humbrecht considers it a classic vintage for (in most instances dry-tasting) Gewurztraminer. And despite the blanket of rot that descended on the Pinot Gris vineyards, a cold, virtually cloudless five day period permitted patient and rigorous selection of fruit. A tribute to the ripeness and high tartaric acidity of these 2005s is that although well more than half of his lots of Riesling and Pinot Gris underwent malolactic transformation, an experienced taster would be hard-pressed to identify which! “Had we had the challenging October of 2004 in 2005 as well,- he says, “most -04s would be better than the -05s.- But as things turned out - October 2005 having been the second warmest after 2001 in the last decade - Humbrecht believes that in the long run these two collections will prove well matched in overall quality.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724

——R.V.(10/1/2002)—— 93

(Not yet released)The 1998 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl Vendanges Tardives was fashioned from the grapes Olivier Humbrecht harvested last (on October 24th). Its toasted nut and flower-scented nose leads to a nuanced, beautifully precise personality. Creamy pears, candied lemons, and sweet apricots are found in this plump, yet graceful wine. Concentrated and complex, it admirably combines delicacy and power. Drink it between 2003 and 2015. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.

The spectacular 1990 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive offers a straw color tinted with hues of gold. It boasts profound honeyed quince aromas and has a massively rich, opulent, mouth-coating character. At ten years of age, this medium-to-full-bodied, powerful, well-balanced wine is beginning to "absorb" its residual sugar (25.8 grams per liter) and its exotic fruit-flavored personality is starting to reveal pure, candied lemons and minerals flavors. This magnificent, velvety-textured wine can be drunk over the next 15-20 years.