Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Quintessence de Grains Nobles, Alsace, France

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A spectacular wine, the massive 2000 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Quintessence de Grains Nobles (190 grams of residual sugar per liter) overflows with spiced pear, lily, rose, potpourri, and apricot aromas. On the palate, this full-bodied blockbuster is sweet, thick, oily-textured and crammed with spicy candied apples as well as cherries, raspberries, and mangoes. Exceptionally well-balanced, its flamboyant personality lasts for almost a minute. Bravo! Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030.According to Laurence Faller, this highly regarded estate's winemaker, "unquestionably 2000 must be considered one of the finest vintages of the last decade. It reminds me of 1998 but with more botrytis, yet not too much."Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 1999 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Quintessence de Grains Nobles is a stunning spice and orange zest-scented wine. Medium to full-bodied and luxurious, it is satin-textured and feminine. This extraordinarily rich wine is reminiscent of syrup-drenched white peaches, lychee nuts, roses, and candy, yet it retains an admirably elegant touch. This magnificent wine has exceptional concentration and depth as well as a distinctive personality. Projected maturity: now-2025.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Intensely expressive roses and minerals are found in the nose of the 1998 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Quintessence de Grains Nobles. This voluminous wine is unctuously-textured and possesses an almost impenetrably dense core. Cherry jam, raspberry jelly, and copious quantities of spices can be discerned within its personality. Sporting 205 grams of residual sugar (per liter), this backward, ultra-rich wine will require cellaring. Sip it between 2006 and 2020+. (Not yet released)Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.

As though its wines at the Selection de Grains Nobles level were not concentrated and powerful enough to knock tasters off their feet, Domaine Weinbach crafts some of the most intense wines on earth under the Quintessence de Grains Nobles moniker. This jammy, syrupy nectar combines massive sugar levels with bracing acidity. Readers should be aware that this wine is meant for sipping in lieu of dessert. It is simply too intense and dominating to be matched with most foods.The gold-colored 1997 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Quintessence de Grains Nobles boasts unheard of quantities of red fruits, golden peaches, candied tangerines, quince jam, dried raisins, and spices in its full-bodied, massively powerful personality. Drink this standard-setter over the next 15-30 years. Since Laurence Faller took over the winemaking duties at Domaine Weinbach (1993/94) there have been marked stylistic changes to the wines. They remain extremely well-made, rich, and concentrated yet are less generous in their youth than under the former winemaker's regime. I am, however, convinced that the wines presently being produced at this famed estate will be longer-lived than those from the past.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.

The 1994 Gewurztraminer Quintessence de Grains Nobles is the ultimate dessert nectar for Gewurztraminer freaks. This smoky, bacon fat-scented wine boasts enormously rich, thick, sweet flavors. In spite of its massive size, it avoids heaviness and cloyingness because of the wine's crisp, zesty acidity. An infant in terms of development, this is the quintessential dessert-styled Gewurztraminer - hence the name. How long will it last? How about 30+ years! Readers can be assured that the micro-quantities produced will fetch well in excess of $100 for a 375 ml bottle.Domaine Weinbach's 1994 Gewurztraminers are all intense, spicy wines. Knowing that readers have either a love or hate relationship with this varietal, I recommend these Gewurztraminers only for those readers who are fond of ostentatious, in-your-face styles of wine.There has been no shortage of great vintages for Domaine Weinbach. 1989 and 1990 are the finest recent vintages prior to 1994, and this estate turned out extremely strong 1992s and 1993s. The 1994s offer a dazzling combination of power, high extraction, and vibrant, well-integrated acidity, making them strikingly intense, beautifully structured wines. This domaine consistently has conservative crop yields. For example, in 1994 the French government permitted 80 hectoliters per hectare, but Domaine Weinbach averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare. The estate's harvest began on September 20th and finished on November 18th. Kudos to the Fallers, who once again have turned out exquisite wines.The 1994 wines reviewed in this issue were tasted in December, 1995.Domaine Weinbach is imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc. (Robert Haas Selections), Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139