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From vines (two-thirds gamay) planted in 1928, Pataille’s 2005 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains represents an irresistibly delicious if simple pleasure and an excellent value. Nutty and black-fruited in the nose, it comes onto the palate soothing, and full of ripe blackberry fruit and toasted nuts, with a bright, juicy finish. Young Sylvain Pataille’s tiny cellar is adjacent to the touristic Medieval pressoir of the Dukes of Burgundy in Chenove, which is to say beneath a busy street in suburban Dijon. He is inquisitively, experimentally and with manifest sensitivity and skill vinifying a multitude of lots (including a remarkable collection of whites) from largely old vines in Marsannay, linked by a common theme of rediscovering techniques that were already being lost when his grandfather founded the family domaine.Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($20.00; 84), 2005 Marsannay La Charme aus Pretres ($30.00; 86).A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70