Ehrhart’s 2005 Pinot Gris Val Saint-Gregoire – grown on granite beneath the Brand – smells peachy and subtly smoky, covers the palate in creamy, pure, peachy fruit and nut paste, and finishes low-key but soothing, satisfying, and with barely a hint of sweetness. This is not terribly concentrated, but on the other hand it is able to deliver ripe flavors, stay relatively dry, and stay under 13% alcohol. Philippe Ehrhart largely markets wines as “Domaine Saint-Remy,” but those that are shipped to the U.S. appear under his own name. The best of these (all, incidentally, raised in tank) display purity without great intensity or complexity, but his young Rieslings displayed oddly developed, fusil, sometimes bitter phenolics.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083.
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