In contrast to the tank-aged, Grenache-based Cuvée Imperiale, Usseglio's 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges is 70% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah, all aged in oak. Dark and potent, it marries deep, dark fruit aromas with scents of vanilla and cedar on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is seamlessly smooth and focused, coming to a lingering, precise finish. Given the varietal makeup and elevage, I'd expect this wine to evolve positively for up to two decades.

A Mourvèdre-based wine, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges also includes 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah. It's aged mostly in wood, so it's a bit more approachable young than the Cuvée Imperiale, combining hints of pencil shavings with roasted plum on the nose. It's velvety and plush without being overly modern, finishing long and mouthwatering.

Dominated by Mourvèdre (70%) and new oak (80%), the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges is a beauty, as long as you set aside preconceptions about typicity and what you think Chateauneuf should taste like. Toasted cedar and vanilla accent black cherry and cola notes in this full-bodied, rich, plush wine that comes at you in supple waves of generosity and flavor. It's approachable (although primary) right now, but it should really hit its stride in 2-3 years and drink well through at least 2035.

As the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee la Parte des Anges contains so much Mourvèdre (70%) and new oak (80%), I suggest cellaring this a few years before getting into it. Right now, the toasty oak is a bit too prominent. Still, between the ripe fruit and lashings of vanilla, what's not to like?—unless you're a dogmatic traditionalist or hung up on terroir and transparency. Yes, this is modern and maybe a bit international in style, but it tastes freakin' good.