The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet has a taut and chalky bouquet that shows more delineation than the 2012 last year. The palate is fresh on the entry. Here the oak lends a spiciness to the lightly honeyed fruit, but there is plenty of depth on the spicy finish to suggest that will repay a couple of year in bottle if you prefer.

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a simple but clean and fresh bouquet with light peachy scents emerging from the glass. The palate is a little labored on the entry but pulls itself together towards the simple lemongrass-infused finish. Drink now-2015. Domaine Philippe Colin is based outside Chassagne at a winery just off the RN6 along with Michel Niellon and one or two others who exchanged the more quixotic idea of producing wine in the village with the comfort of space. This was my final visit during five weeks in Burgundy tasting 2012s. Unfortunately many of the wines had just been racked, so I was limited in what I could taste. I have had many good experiences with the wines in the past, although these 2012s did not quite capture the imagination as much as I was expecting. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400.

A 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet from Philippe Colin smells and tastes of pear nectar and lime laced with flowers. Glycerin-rich and subtly creamy, it finishes with a preservation of citrus oil and pear distillate high-tones, accompanied by wafting wood smoke, floral perfume, and pear pip bitterness. Unlike Colin's Saint-Romain, this shows its one-quarter new wood as a slightly resinous – but scarcely objectionable – overtone. It lacks quite the clarity or lift that accrues to the best 2007s of its appellation, but is still of high quality for a generic village wine for enjoying over the next 3-4 years. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524