The Colin 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Embrazees smells and tastes with pungent bitter-sweetness of lemon and tangerine oil mingled with peach kernel, chalk, and honey. This palpably dense wine carries a lot of energy through to its sappy, persistent finish, but not the elegance of the Vergers. I suspect this might simply be in an ornery mood at the moment. The underlying preconditions for a white Burgundy worth following for half a dozen or more years seem to be here. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524