Made from microscopic yields of 6 hectoliters per hectare, the profound 2003 Crozes-Hermitage Raymond Roure is an atypically powerful Crozes that tips the scales at 15% alcohol. Aged completely in neutral wood, it displays superb intensity along with a huge bouquet of black truffles, asphalt, creme de cassis, blackberries, white flowers, and black tea. One of the greatest Crozes-Hermitages ever made, this full-bodied blockbuster is a potential legend. It will drink well for 15-20 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The deep ruby-colored 2001 Crozes-Hermitage Raymond Roure reveals a striking liquid minerality in its cassis, licorice, and leather-scented perfume. From a vineyard with a full southerly exposure, it is dense, chewy, austere in the finish, but impeccably well-made, and one of the most concentrated Jaboulet 2001 reds. Patience will be rewarded. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2014. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Slightly less impressive than it seemed last year, the 2000 Crozes-Hermitage Raymond Roure exhibits scents of green peppers and black currants in its medium-bodied, chunky personality. Although monolithic, it is well-made, spicy, and capable of 10-12 years of cellaring. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

For whatever reason, the 1999 Crozes-Hermitage Raymond Roure is good, but uninspiring. Herbaceous notes along with notions of old saddle leather and vague cherry/currant fruit are found in this soft, medium-bodied effort. It lacks the depth and ripeness expected from this potentially stunning vintage. Consume it during its first 5-7 years of life. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700