Better is the 2006 Cotes du Rhone-Villages, which reveals sweeter black cherry fruit intermixed with some olive, earth, and mineral. It is attractive, medium-weight, and best drunk over the next 2-3 years. Although there’s been a change of ownership, with the Frey family (proprietors of Chateau La Lagune) taking over the reins starting with the 2006 vintage, and hiring famed Bordeaux professor of oenology, Denis Dubourdieu, to make the wines, it is still difficult to get a fix on just what is going to occur. The white wines seem to already have improved dramatically. The reds lag behind, and that will be evidenced by my reviews of the northern Rhone cuvees that will appear in a future issue. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

While Jaboulet’s 2005 Cotes du Rhone Parallel 45 is a major disappointment, the 2005 Cotes du Rhone-Villages exhibits plenty of pepper, garrigue, sweet cherries, and dark fruits in a medium-bodied style. It is meant to be consumed over the next several years. Everything is changing at the Jaboulet firm now that it has been sold and is under control of the Frey family, also major investors in the Billecart-Salmon Champagne, and the proprietors of Bordeaux’s Chateau La Lagune. These 2005s were sourced and blended by the Jaboulet family, and finished by the new owners. I fully expect a rise in quality across the board at this estate, and I can’t wait to see what the new owners do with their first top vintage. The following cuvees will probably be discounted heavily to make room for the newer vintages.Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2003 Cotes du Rhone-Villages, made from 100% Grenache, possesses plenty of sweet kirsch and licorice notes, medium body, soft tannin, and a big, fleshy mouthfeel. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

A densely-colored effort is the 2000 Cotes du Rhone-Villages. Copious aromas of road tar, truffles, black fruits, pepper, and garrigue are followed by a fleshy, friendly-styled wine with low acidity as well as abundant fruit. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

This wine is firm and tannic. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700