Jaboulet's 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc les Cedres is a plump, custardy-textured white loaded with lime and tangerine notes. It's full-bodied, but that richness is balanced by citrus pith and zest on the finish.

Despite only 15% new oak, this wine comes across as toasty and caramelly, with delicate touches of pear, honey and wet stones. There's plenty of weight and length, so fans of oaked whites will find plenty to like.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 87

Restrained in style, with modest pear and honey notes tinged with a toasty, mealy edge. Shows some nice creaminess to the midpalate, then fades gradually on the finish. Drink now.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 85

Always one of my favorite whites, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Cedres blanc includes a significant amount of Picardin in the blend, which provides an exotic, Condrieu-like quality. Ripe, medium-bodied, and tasty, it requires consumption during its first 2-3 years of life. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700