Other good whites include the elegant, Chablis-like 2007 St.-Peray Les Sauvageres, a blend of 85% Marsanne and 15% Roussane that was put through malolactic. It is notable for its floral, stony, mineral-dominated character. I have previously documented the decline in quality at this estate following the tragic death of Gerard Jaboulet. That ended in the unexpected sale of Paul Jaboulet-Aine to the Frey family that has done such brilliant work at Bordeaux’s Chateau La Lagune, and are major shareholders in the superb Champagne house of Billecart-Salmon. No doubt they will resurrect the reputation and the quality of the Jaboulet wines, as this was the leading estate in the northern Rhone during the sixties, seventies, and eighties. The Freys have already made some dramatic changes, moving toward eliminating the negociant line of wines, and concentrating exclusively on estate bottled offerings. They own over 120 acres in the northern Rhone as well as 14+ acres in the southern Rhone. The following offerings reflect the recent changes and a work in progress, with the 2006s still under-performing (the Frey family was not in a position to do much in that vintage). The 2007s are clearly better, and I believe that in a few years, when the northern Rhone has its next great vintage, consumers will see a dramatic increase in quality as the new owners have already brought in the world-famous oenologist, Professor Denis Dubourdieu as a consultant. Any readers who have some of the old vintages of Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert in their cellars should be checking them out. The 1978 and 1990 are still brilliant wines, but neither the 2006 or the 2007 will invoke memories of those wines. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The delicious 2006 St.-Peray Les Sauvageres (70% Marsanne and 30% Roussanne) exhibits notes of citrus oil, honeysuckle, and nectarines. Ripe, medium-bodied, crisp, and delicious, it should be enjoyed over the next several years. Readers have to recognize that everything is in a state of transition at Paul Jaboulet-Aine. The Jaboulets sold this old family firm, founded in the early eighteen hundreds, to the Frey family, major investors in the Billecart-Salmon Champagne house and proprietors of Chateau La Lagune in the Medoc. A new winemaking team, which includes the brilliant Bordeaux Professor Denis Dubourdieu for the white wines, has been installed. As these tasting notes demonstrates, they seem to be moving quickly to erase some of the lackluster wines produced from the mid-1990s through 2004. However, much still needs improvement. I suspect, given the Frey’s resources as well as their accomplishments at Chateau La Lagune, this historic firm is in good hands, and the listless quality of these releases will be forgotten very quickly. The red wine portfolio includes some disappointing cuvees, especially the 2005s, which seem to have narrowed out and become harder, leaner, and more austere. The first vintage for which the Frey family had some degree of control, 2006, is a mixed year, but generally the wines are good. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Readers looking for a Chablis-styled, stony, crisp, tart white should check out Jaboulet’s 2004 St.-Peray Les Sauvageres, which is dominated by minerals. Hopefully, the new owners will beef these wines up with a stricter selection prior to bottling. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The stony, liquid minerality of the 2003 St.-Peray Les Sauvageres and its full-bodied, power, and richness are stunning. I would love to see this wine put in a blind tasting of grand cru Chablis. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700