The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Chaponnières offers up attractive aromas of sweet berries, cherries and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, a satiny and vibrant palate that's attractively pure and focussed. It's an elegant middle-weight that will drink well in its youth.

The 2015 Pommard 1er Cru Les Chaponnières is also completely de-stemmed like Nicolas's other Pommards, however, I find much more refinement and terroir-expression on the nose compared to some of the other crus: blackberry, raspberry preserve and cold stone aromas developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannin, solid backbone, vivacious and tensile with impressive precision on the finish. This is an excellent Pommard.

The 2013 Pommard 1er Cru Chaponnières has a slightly subdued bouquet at the moment with light blackberry leaf and forest floor scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and finely tuned acidity, quite linear in the mouth but with satisfactory freshness on the taut finish. Fine.

The 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Chaponnieres was entirely de-stemmed. It has an approachable bouquet with raspberry and fresh strawberry fruit interlaced with cedar and a touch of wild mint. The palate is soft and rounded and more Volnay-like in style thanks to the roundness and fleshiness on the finish. Delicious – one to enjoy in its flush of youth after bottling. I have been tasting the wines of Nicolas Rossignol for several years now, but this was the first time that I had visited him at the winery in Beaune that he shares with Benjamin Leroux. “I didn’t have enough space in Volnay where I was working with my father,” he explained. “My first vinification here was in 2011.” He now farms around 15 hectares of vine that have been handed down from his family. “My father is from Volnay and my mother Pernand,” he continued. “In 2002, when my grandfather was 89 years old, he said that he was going to sell the grapes to a negoce. I said ‘O.K. Then I will be your negoce’. Then in 2008, one of my uncles who also sold grapes to negoce said exactly the same thing. Most of his vineyards were next to my father’s and so I made the same deal with him, on the condition that I worked the vineyards like he had been doing. That was fine because I like to spend time in the vineyards. So now my grandparents’ and uncle’s vines go into the domaine’s wine. And now in this winery, I can do what I want, whereas before I did what I can.” In 2012, like so many producers, his vines were affected by the growing conditions and especially the hail, therefore he has had to blend some premier crus together because the quantities were simply too miniscule to bottle separately. “I lost a lot of grapes in Volnay, Pommard and Beaune,” he rued. One topic of conversation that kept arising was Nicolas’s approach to whole cluster ferments and to this end, I have detailed the percentages with respect to each barrel sample. “I like whole clusters,” he enthused. “It gives energy to wine. But it is not appropriate for all terroirs. For example I do not use whole clusters for ferrous soils because the energy comes from the terroir already.” Nicolas prefers punching down the fruit rather than pumping over and presses once the tannins are fully ripe, which he assesses on taste rather than analyzing the must. He opined that his 2012s will probably require an extended period in bottle, possibly up until August or September for some wines. Like many growers I spoke to, he eschews new oak and raises all the wines in 30% one-year-old barrels, 30% two-year-old and the remainder in older wood. These were generally excellent wines: taut, bursting with red fruit, very distinctive and respectful of their terroirs and brimming over with personality. The judicious application of oak allowed the vagaries of the fruit to be expressed, while lending the wines just enough body to give them structure and intensity. While most will be approachable in their youth, I believe that the premier crus will have a propensity to age in not dissimilar fashion to his 2010s. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)