The 1949 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru is spectacular, wafting from the glass with aromas of incense, caramelized orange rind, red berries, sweet soil and game bird, complemented by a malty top note that only complements the wine's savory and carnal nuances. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, still at the peak of its powers, with wonderful depth and intensity. Effortlessly balanced and coherent, this Corton-Bressandes concludes with a lively, pristinely delineated finish. In a day filled with great bottles of Richebourg, Chambertin and Romanée-Saint-Vivant, the hill of Corton more than held its own.