The inky/ruby/purple-tinged 2007 Vin de Pays Cabernet Sauvignon (which includes small amounts of Merlot and Petit Verdot) offers classic Cabernet aromas of tobacco leaf, creme de cassis, chocolate, and cedar. This well-made, medium to full-bodied, dense, long wine may be the finest Cabernet Sauvignon Romero has yet produced. It should last for 7-8 years, possibly longer. Few vignerons are more interesting to visit than Domaine La Soumade’s Andre Romero, whose wines are longtime reference points for the wines of Rasteau, a village with some incredible terroirs as well as a high percentage of old vine Grenache. Romero makes a bevy of Vin de Pays offerings, but his finest cuvees are his Cotes du Rhone and Rasteau wines. He also produces a small amount of Gigondas. Readers who don’t think Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon can do well in the Mistral winds and dry heat of the southern Rhone should check out Soumade’s offerings. St.-Emilion’s guru, Stephane Derenoncourt is the consulting winemaker, which may help explain why these wines are so good.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Also impressive, the 2006 Vin de Pays Cabernet Sauvignon reveals evolved, complex, Bordeaux-like notes of graphite, pain grille, black currants, plums, and cedar. It is full-bodied, ripe, rich, and should be drunk over the next 4-5 years. Few vignerons are more interesting to visit than Domaine La Soumade’s Andre Romero, whose wines are longtime reference points for the wines of Rasteau, a village with some incredible terroirs as well as a high percentage of old vine Grenache. Romero makes a bevy of Vin de Pays offerings, but his finest cuvees are his Cotes du Rhone and Rasteau wines. He also produces a small amount of Gigondas. Readers who don’t think Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon can do well in the Mistral winds and dry heat of the southern Rhone should check out Soumade’s offerings. St.-Emilion’s guru, Stephane Derenoncourt is the consulting winemaker, which may help explain why these wines are so good.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Andre Romero continues to turn out an impressive portfolio of wines. Several of his vin de pays fly under most consumer's radar as one does not generally associate Bordeaux varietals with the southern Rhone.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The impressive 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon VDP d’Orange includes 10% Petit Verdot in the blend. It exhibits unexpected elegance along with powerful blackberry and floral notes, and hints of cedar, roast beef, and tobacco leaf. Not surprisingly, the consulting winemaker at Soumade is one of the gurus of Bordeaux, the renowned Stephane Derenoncourt. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Cedar, herbs, and vegetal characteristics along with hard tannin dominate the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon VDP d’Orange. Without the textural richness and plushness of the 2004, it is a coarser, more savage example, hence my reservation about its future evolution. I would opt for drinking it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565