Philippe Roty's 2006 Marsannay Champs St.-Etienne (from an iron-rich site with only one other owner) has a hard act to follow in the form of a highly distinctive 2005, but it rises to the challenge. Lovely ripe dark cherry fruit and deep carnal notes in the nose migrate onto a creamy palate that conveys a sense of invigoration thanks to the tart edge of the berries and a sense of chalk dust impingement. This is one of those 2006 vintage instances of high extract and ripeness going hand in hand with lift and elegance. It should be fascinating to employ over the next 4-6 years. By the way, if the plan afoot goes through to create premier crus in Marsannay, the tiny Clos St.-Etienne would be required to take the less-than-euphonious name of its larger – albeit virtually unknown – neighbor Genelieres. This gives you a broad hint as to what Philippe Roty – who in my experience bottles more cru-quality Marsannay than anyone else – thinks of that plan! "What's needed in Marsannay," he quips, "isn't premier crus. It's low yields, hand harvesting, and triage." Philippe Roty is among the many growers to assert that under-ripe fruit rather than rot was what really drove his 2006 selection process. "But, hail or no hail, I do a strict triage regardless; and besides" he notes with a laugh, "it hails every year in at least one part of Marsannay." He picked in a relative hurry the last week of September, because "as far as I'm concerned, above 13% potential alcohol you have surmaturite, and that's not good." Besides, like the Mugneret sisters and a considerable number of other top-notch growers, Roty favors routinely – if only slightly – chaptalizing his entire range to promote longer and, he believes, flavor- and texture-enhancing fermentation. (While I have mentioned in the text of my tasting notes those wines that are part of the personal domaine of Philippe Roty and bottled under his name, I have not reflected this in the naming of the wines, as the same label is used for those as for the Domaine Joseph Roty wines and they are all vinified and aged together by the same team.) Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Cinnamon-infused rhubarb and sour cherry inform the nose and palate of this juicy, downright gripping wine that finishes with intense fresh fruit, coffee grounds, and positively tactile tingling of spice as well as something which – once you know the wine’s origins – it is irresistible to think of as iron filings! This displays abundant and grainier tannins than its stable mates, but its infectious juiciness and dynamic personality somehow would not fit a wine of smoothness and polish. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity.Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?).Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.

Stylistically different, this medium-to-dark-colored wine has a nose reminiscent of black currants, game, and licorice ("I always add licorice sticks to the cuves," joked Roty), as well as a pure, powerful, dense, broad-shouldered, yet feminine personality. Juicy blackberries, earth, and black cherries can be found in this full-bodied, thick, and well-delineated wine. Tannic at present, this is more elegant and less intense. Drink it between 2001 and 2007.*Note: The Marsannay Les Champs St. Etienne's label indicates Domaine Philippe Roty, Joseph Roty's son.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ, tel (908) 654-6173.