The 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Cuvée Leonie is a four-barrel blend of Fremiers and Rugiens, matured for two years in barrel without racking. After hail in June, yields across the two parcels amounted to a mere 14 hectoliters per hectare. Unwinding in the glass with scents of peonies, orange rind, plum, exotic spices and cinnamon, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with superb concentration and powdery tannins. Despite the hail, there's absolutely no structural asperity, and this is aging with real grace.