From 50 year old vines, Amiot's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie smells deliciously and brightly of fresh lime and red currant; comes to the palate bright, snappy, a bit chewy, but with ripe peach joining the citrus and red berry, as well as with alkaline and saline mineral dimensions; and finishes with lift, refreshment, invigoration (if faint tartness), and elegance, evincing a hint of smoke. This should be worth following for 4-6 years. Thierry Amiot was one of a number of growers who admitted to me that their choice of starting date for the 2007 Chardonnay harvest was inevitably influenced by the presence of a crew who had just finished bringing in a ridiculously early crop of Pinot Noir, and that perhaps in the first days this picking might have been a bit too early for optimal Chardonnay flavor. Still, better that than any botrytis: Amiot’s 2007s are far more impressive than had been his collection of 2006s, which suffered occasional diffuse, volatile, or rough patches, and were really only convincing in the upper-echelons. The 30-50% new wood used here was once again evident, as are the results of batonnage (omitted in 2006). Finished alcohol levels this year do not exceed 13.5%, which is lower than in other recent Amiot vintages. As usual, village wines were bottled at one year and premier crus along with the reds, after 16 months. Importer; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524