An Amiot 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes smells of lemon, black currant and herbs in an almost Sauvignon-like way; is bright, juicy, and relatively delicate on the palate, with cyanic hints of apple pit, suggestions of wet stone, and a slightly detached, resinous oak component; and finishes with refreshment if also a hint of hardness. I would want to check this out again in 2010 before offering any longer-term prognosis. Thierry Amiot was one of a number of growers who admitted to me that their choice of starting date for the 2007 Chardonnay harvest was inevitably influenced by the presence of a crew who had just finished bringing in a ridiculously early crop of Pinot Noir, and that perhaps in the first days this picking might have been a bit too early for optimal Chardonnay flavor. Still, better that than any botrytis: Amiot’s 2007s are far more impressive than had been his collection of 2006s, which suffered occasional diffuse, volatile, or rough patches, and were really only convincing in the upper-echelons. The 30-50% new wood used here was once again evident, as are the results of batonnage (omitted in 2006). Finished alcohol levels this year do not exceed 13.5%, which is lower than in other recent Amiot vintages. As usual, village wines were bottled at one year and premier crus along with the reds, after 16 months. Importer; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

There is an appealing aromatic richness to the 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet. Lush, satiny-textured, and fleshy, it displays earthy minerals in its simple yet appealing character. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.

The 1997 Chassagne-Montrachet has fresh aromas of earth and minerals. This is a simple, medium-bodied wine with lovely flavors of ripe peaches and stones. Regrettably, it finishes abruptly. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524, Domaines et Saveurs Collection, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, French Fax: 33-3-80-22-58-25.

The Chassagne-Montrachet has a sweet floral nose and a lively, soft, and light-to-medium-bodied core of tangy minerals. This well-made wine bases its appeal on its refreshing nature, not complexity, depth, or richness. I suggest drinking it within 2-3 years. Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524, Domaines et Saveurs Collection, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, French Fax: 33-3-80-22-58-25, and in Massachusetts: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel (617) 731-6644.