The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères is showing well, mingling scents of confit citrus and citrus zest with hints of spice and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, textural but incisive, this is both the deepest and the raciest of Carillon's communal bottlings.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères is the most reserved of Carillon's lieux-dits bottlings, unfurling in the glass with aromas of lemon oil, white flowers and pastry cream. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, silky and pure, with the most tension and cut of his three Puligny village bottlings, displaying excellent depth at the core and a long, precise finish.

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet les Enseigneres has a very reticent nose at the moment, perhaps more so than the village cru. The palate is balanced on the entry with citrus lemon, grapefruit and lime, although it just needs to gain a little more weight and presence to fill out the finish.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignieres blossoms on the palate with layers of sweet, incredibly inviting fruit. Although very much a medium-bodied wine, the Enseignieres is vivid and multi-dimensional in the glass. An utterly refined, polished finish is just one of the many characteristics that elevates the Enseignieres. This is a fabulous village-level wine from Francois Carillon. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. These 2010s are the first wines Francois Carillon has made from start to finish on his own. Based on the wines I tasted, it looks like Francois’s wines are a little silkier than his brother Jacques’s wines. I also tasted the 2011s, which are shaping up beautifully. As of 2011, the range will include two new premier crus from Chassagne-Montrachet: Clos St. Jean and Chenevottes, great news for fans of this ‘new’ domaine. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802