The 2016 Puligny Montrachet, primarily from the village sector of Les Chalumaux, felt a little muted on the nose, a scent of a wild pond water accompanying the malic scents. The palate is edgy on the entry with citrus peel and a fine salinity, quite conservative in style and missing a little length, but with a satisfying freshness for a village cru.

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet is actually 80% declassified vines in the Chalumeaux vineyard. It has an expressive, granite and slate-tinged bouquet that is nicely focused, more intense than many village crus that I encountered during my visits. The palate is well balanced with vibrant acidity, very saline in the mouth with great nervosité on the finish. This is premier cru in quality and comes strongly recommended. It punches well above its weight and the quality of the terroir shows through.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet Villages, which includes one-third declassified premier cru fruit, has a taciturn bouquet at the moment, despite aeration. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, nicely balanced with a touch of fatness on the leesy finish. Fine, if perhaps just below my expectations.