An uncanny impression of vanilla-tinged, chocolate-covered litchi greets the nose from Dirler-Cade 2009 Gewurztraminer Saering, persisting on a creamy, voluminous palate, with sizzling impingement of mint candy as well as alcoholic heat. This highly-confectionary, striking effort manages to evince a hint of alkalinity by way of counterpoint in its sustained and fortunately not at all heavy finish. It seems to me this might be an intriguing dessert-in-a-glass to follow over the next dozen years or so, though I am suspicious it might otherwise prove an awkward guest. As usual chez Dirler, I was forced during my most recent visit to take a slightly abbreviated tour of the two most recent collections on account of this family’s sheer multitude of bottlings, but it is clear from their 2008s that this remains one of the most frequently exciting – and generally consistent – sources of wine in Alsace, making it unfortunate that one doesn’t see Dirler-Cade wines more often in the U.S. Moreover, this is an estate that’s rendering highly distinctive; often deliciously unorthodox; but never fashion-pandering innovations while retaining a clear and constant vision of how the classic cepages of Alsace should perform in sites that can boast some of the longest – not to mention most-deserved – reputations of any in their region. All this having been noted, 2009 was a challenge even here: sometimes well-met, but seldom entirely surmounted. Rieslings were being harvested as early as mid-September, and Jean Dirler observes that had he cut back the crop on his Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer rather than allowing bunches to remain abundant, he would really have had a problem with sky-high potential alcohol. (For more on the Dirlers’ sites and methods, consult my reports on earlier vintages.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

The 2005 Gewurztraminer Saering offers aromas of candied grapefruit rind, bacon fat, rose petal, and abundant resinous herbs. Lush, full, and persistently juicy, this displays remarkable clarity for a wine of such richness, finishing with saline, chalky mineral nuances, long on highly smoky bacon and pungent but never truly bitter herb and citrus zest character. Despite 13 grams of residual sugar, this tastes to all intents and purposes dry. Here is a versatile, well-tuned Gewurztraminer Organ playing harmoniously in all registers – floral, animal, fruit, and mineral – and capable of delivering superb, resonant performances over at least the next fifteen years. So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Demure scents of grapefruits and peaches can be discerned in the nose of the 2000 Gewurz Traminer Saering. Light to medium-bodied and rich, this wine has excellent grip to its lush character. Yellow fruits make up its flavorful personality. Anticipated maturity: Now-2009. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185