The 2004 Pinot Gris Schwarzberg – named for the forest above the Spiegel and Kessler – is subtly smoky, spicy, and apply throughout. Less pure or clear than the Reserve bottling and marked by significant sweetness, it suggests some sense of chalky minerality in its satisfying if only moderately long finish. So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Earth, mineral, and pears are intermingled with grapefruit zests in the nose of the 2000 Tokay-Pinot Gris Schwarzberg Vendanges Tardives. Rich, opulent, and medium-bodied, its outstanding character bastes the palate with deeply ripe white as well as yellow fruits. This wine admirably combines power and refinement. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185