The Dirlers- 2007 Pinot - a 100% Pinot Noir of pale salmon color - was, for the second time in the history of this cuvee (and far more successfully than in 2006), fermented in barrel, where it received extended lees contact. Fresh cherry and lime on the nose follow on a palate of subtle creaminess and generous refreshment, with spicy adjuncts from the barrel and mineral salts mingling in a saliva-inducing finish. This will prove versatile over at least the next 12-18 months. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

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Their highly-distinctive 2005 Pinot is 100% Pinot Noir vinified as a white (and resulting in a faint “partridge eye” color). Cherry and plum aromas are followed by a brisk mouthful of fresh fruit yet also a creamy touch from malo-lactic fermentation, and a finish of considerable grip. The domaine has essayed this cuvee – from a parcel Jean-Pierre Dirler says is simply more suited to white wine despite being planted to Pinot Noir – since 1995So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185