The 2021 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is lovely, opening in the glass with aromas of dark berries, spices, orange zest, smoke, loamy soil and oyster sauce. Full-bodied, rich and charming, with a satiny attack that segues into a seamless, fleshy mid-palate framed by melting tannins, it concludes with a precise finish.

The 2020 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is brilliant. Soaring from the glass with aromas of wild berries, plums, blood orange, peonies and sweet soil tones, it's full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with a deep and layered core, lively acids and a long, saline finish.

The 2019 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit, plums, peonies, rose petals, exotic spices and blood orange. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it's velvety and concentrated, with lively acids and a long, sapid finish. Given its upfront appeal, this will offer an unusually broad drinking window.

A wild and brooding bouquet of dark berries, cinnamon, grilled meats, black chocolate and rich soil tones introduces the 2018 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, a full-bodied, broad and textural wine that's deep and layered, with powdery tannins and complex carnal nuances to complement its sweet core of fruit, concluding with a sapid finish. Mortet told me that this is one of the higher-pH cuvées in the cellar this year, and I suspect it will drink well comparatively early by the standards of young Mazis-Chambertin.

2017 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is the fourth vintage of this grand cru that Arnaud Mortet has produced and it's a lovely wine, offering up notes of dark wild berries, orange rind, peonies and spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and layered, with excellent depth and dimension, framed by fine-grained tannins that assert themselves on the elegantly chalky finish. Mortet manually destemmed a quarter of this cuvée, cutting out the stems and retaining the pedicels.