Domaine de Montille Le Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, France

德蒙蒂酒莊凱樂瑞園（普里尼-蒙哈榭一級園）白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：8339

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret has a clean and fresh bouquet with apple blossom and granitic scents, though I find it not as vivid as a 2014 might have been. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity and satisfying depth although, like the Meursault Perrières, I would like to see more terroir and tension develop on the finish. I just want it to express its origins more clearly.

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Caillerets has a very elegant bouquet with dried white flowers and jasmine scents, not so far from the Meursault Perrières in style. The palate is well balanced with touches of bitter lemon and orange rind, plenty of finesse and tension, especially on the finish that feels long in the mouth. This is a well-crafted Caillerets to enjoy over the next decade.

The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret, which comes from a 0.85-hectare parcel on rocky soils, came across as laconic, broody an introspective on the nose, gradually opening with light mineral aromas. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a lively citrus and almost effervescent core. This actually improves the more it remains in the mouth and there is a lovely touch of ginger on the finish. This is a wonderful Puligny Le Cailleret that shimmers with class and breeding. Dare I say that it has the hubris to outclass the Corton-Charlemagne. I was interested to learn that when Hubert de Montille inherited his father’s vines in 1947, it consisted of just three hectares. Over the years he built up both his family’s holdings and his reputation from his base in Volnay, not far from Michel Lafarge, while running a successful law firm in Dijon. During the 1990s he gradually handed over the running to his son Etienne, who was working in the financial sector and his daughter Alix, married to Jean-Marc Roulot. It was during Etienne’s tenure at Credit Foncier that he was charged with running Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet. That was probably when I first met him, somewhere around 1998, the first time accompanied by his father. Etienne is not a man to take things easy. He established a negociant business in 2003 (Les Deux Montille) that is based in the old Bouchard Pere cellars on the outskirts of Meursault, converted the vineyard to organic viticulture in 1995 and then biodynamic in 2005. Though certified by Ecocert in 2012 he has always been less dogmatic about it than others practitioners. The biggest development in recent years is the acquisition of the mouth-watering Thomas-Moillard holdings in 2005 in conjunction with Domaine Dujac and outside investors. If I am to be honest, the rapid changes have made it difficult to keep up with the changes, not that anyone is protesting against improvements. I guess it is just a case of keeping pace with Etienne! Today they tend just over 20 hectares of vine of which three-quarters are either premier or grand cru. See also Chateau du Puligny-Montrachet. As usual, there is a clutch of excellent wines here, each appearing to articulate the vagaries of each terroir with style. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The aromatics on the Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Caillerets 2011 is more austere than Anne-Claude Leflaive’s Clavoillon, but it is beautifully defined with wet limestone and sea cave scents that with aeration become very intense. The palate is crisp and taut with very fine tension. It just loses a little intensity toward the finish, but it possesses a surfeit of freshness and precision. This was one of the best white 2011s Burgundy wines that I tasted during an intensive week of peer group tasting.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets is richer and deeper than the Champ Gains. Here the fruit tends towards yellow stone fruits. The minerality is a bit subdued by the wine’s layers of seductive, enveloping fruit. A creamy, deep finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released) Alix de Montille is going for a taut style with the whites she makes at the Domaine and at Deux Montille, the negociant operation she runs with her brother Etienne. The 2009s are quite strong across the board. Unfortuantely I was only able to taste a partial lineup of the 2010s (for both the Domaine and Deux Montille) as several of the wines were still in malo. Based on what I tasted in barrel, 2010 is a much more exciting vintage here, and one that gave de Montille the perfect conditions to make wines in her style. The 2010s show enormous promise. I can hardly wait to taste them in finished form. The wines from Domaine de Montille are reviewed separately. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808