Maison de Montille Sous Fretille Blanc, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru, France

德蒙蒂酒莊飛笛（佩爾南-韋熱萊斯一級(jí)園）白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：636

There is plenty of up-front juiciness, volume and texture supported by lively acidity in the 2010 Pernand-Vergelesses Sous-Fretille. Sweet spiced and minty notes develop in the glass, adding complexity and nuance. Although a bit tight and clenched on the finish, the 2010 offers lovely balance and plenty of character. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. For my general comments on recent developments on Deux Montille, readers may want to take a look at my introduction in the Domaine de Montille section. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

The 2009 Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Fretille is fresher but also rounder than the village Pernand-Vergelesses. It shows gorgeous focus in its bright fruit to match a sensual, caressing personality. The finish is all harmony and class. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Alix de Montille is going for a taut style with the whites she makes at the Domaine and at Deux Montille, the negociant operation she runs with her brother Etienne. The 2009s are quite strong across the board. Unfortuantely I was only able to taste a partial lineup of the 2010s (for both the Domaine and Deux Montille) as several of the wines were still in malo. Based on what I tasted in barrel, 2010 is a much more exciting vintage here, and one that gave de Montille the perfect conditions to make wines in her style. The 2010s show enormous promise. I can hardly wait to taste them in finished form. The wines from Domaine de Montille are reviewed separately. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

From the dramatic, steep hillside that rises behind the village and opposite the northern terminus of En Charlemagne (but is not rated premier cru), Deux Montille's 2007 Pernand-Vergelesses Le Sous Fretille strikes a saline, chicken stock, kirsch, and quarry dust pose in the nose that would do a Chablis premier cru proud. Suggestions of pungent herbs and caraway lend a slightly Sauvignon-like note. The last thing in my mind is to do this distinctive wine an injustice by comparing it to something else, but hopefully these similes suffice to indicate how unusual it is for a Cote d'Or Chardonnay. Bright, salt- and stone-saturated, yet texturally tender, this launches into a finish of tremendous verve, staining the palate with herbal, mineral, and citrus oil residues. A hint of honey points toward a deeply buried incipient richness, and I am quite convinced that this will evolve in a Corton-Charlemagne-like manner over the next half dozen or more years. In the course of its six years, this negociant business of siblings has mourned the loss of a few excellent contracts, but continues to be an expanding source of impeccably rendered, consistently nuanced (and almost exclusively white) Burgundies. Alix de Montille puts special emphasis on ferreting out excellent sites in the less fashionable villages of the Cote d'Or, as well as in the Cote Chalonnaise. The resulting wines are expensive relative to their appellations but not to their quality. (For more about Alix de Montille's approach – avowedly influenced by that of her husband, Jean-Marc Roulot – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180.) Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

The Deux Montille 2006 Pernand-Vergelesses Le Sous Fretille – from high above the village – was also bottled early. With ripe peach and tart plum fruit and an alkaline expression of minerals, this offers imposing richness and formidable concentration, but without the charm or the intriguing mineral and fungal elements that make the corresponding village wine so compelling. I would be inclined to enjoy this within 2-3 years, but perhaps there is more here than met my palate on this occasion. The small, five year old negociant business of siblings Alix and Etienne de Montille is designed to remain small and to focus almost exclusively on white wines. Alix de Montille (who is also responsible for the whites of Domaine de Montille) has been avowedly influenced by her husband, Jean-Marc Roulot, and clarity, purity, and refinement are the watchwords in this cellar. “I like lively wines,” she explains, “just as I like lively people.” De Montille has had notable success in sourcing and exercising the necessary quality control over exemplary fruit from some of Burgundy’s less prestigious appellation, although experience has shown that such contracts can be as difficult to maintain as those that govern more celebrated sites. De Montille performed no batonnage, and generally shortened her 2006’s stays in barrel (overwhelmingly demi-muids, 10-20% new). A number of the wines were in tank, waiting bottling, when I tasted them. (A powerful Pouilly-Fuisse from two excellent sites in Vergisson, as well as a rich, promising St.-Aubin Sur Gamay could not be fairly assessed while on their finings; a Chevalier-Montrachet of enormous potential was not re-tasted after malo-lactic; and there were several wines I did not taste at all.) Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29