Some 80% of de Montille's 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village consists of declassified premier cru Les Chalumeaux, which may account for why it's so good this year. Revealing notes of citrus oil, white flowers, fresh pastry and beeswax, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and succulent, combining charming fruit with mineral nuance to persuasive effect.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village displays notes of ripe apples, white flowers and pastry cream, followed by a medium-bodied, pure and vibrant palate that will likely flesh out with further élevage. Like the other bottlings that were formerly offered under the Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet label, it's a touch more open-knit and precocious than I suspect future iterations under the de Montille label will be.