The 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Petits Plets, matured in 40% new oak, has a more complex bouquet compared to the Clos de l'Arlot this year, black earthy fruit mixed with mineral and slightly ferrous scents. It seems quite mercurial in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent red fruit on the entry, and a citric line of acidity that binds everything in towards the long and tender finish. There is a sense of class and sophistication about this Petits Plets.

From 25-year-old vines that were planted to replace those that perished in the 1985/1986 frosts, the 2013 Nuits Saint Georges les Petits Plets has a more complex bouquet than the Petit Arlot with stony, mineral scents infusing the dark cherry and raspberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, more structured than the Petit Arlot, with a firm grip on the slightly austere finish. It needs a little more flesh to develop. Fine.

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Cuvee Les Petit Plets reveals a huge, exotic bouquet backed up by equally exuberant, expressive fruit. The tannins are quite firm. The Petit Plets is likely to require quite a bit of patience, but it is absolutely beautiful even at this infant stage. There is more than enough structure to support many years in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. I was struck by the sheer beauty of the wines I tasted at Domaine de l’Arlot. The 2010s are stunning, while the 2009s are among the most structured wines of that year. Notes on the domaine’s 2009s will be published in the April issue. The 2010s are also the last wines made by Olivier Leriche, who left the domaine after the 2011 harvest. Leriche was replaced by Jacques Devauges, whose previous experience includes time at Frederic Magnien and Domaine de la Vougeraie. As is the case throughout the region, 2010 is a vintage marked by the devastating December frost, an irregular flowering caused by poor weather and continuing bad weather throughout the summer. Yields were down 30-40% across the board. The wines, however, are stunning, and I urge readers to check them out. Various American importers, including: A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677-9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Triage Wines Inc., Seattle, WA; tel. (503) 236-6262; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Ansonia Wines, Washington D.C.; tel. (202) 506-4215; USA Wine Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 941-7133

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Cuvee Les Petit Plets is a bit more open and accessible than the Petit Arlot. An open, warm bouquet leads to expressive dark fruit in this generous, supple Burgundy. This, too, could use a few more years to soften, but it is incredibly beautiful even today. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. I was blown away by Domaine de l’Arlot’s 2009s when I tasted them from bottle. Most of the wines came in at the high end or above my projected scores from barrel. I found a purity and frankness in these wines that was compelling. Various American importers, including: A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Triage Wines Inc., Seattle, WA; tel. (503) 236-6262; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Ansonia Wines, Washington D.C.; tel. (202) 506-4215; USA Wine Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 941-7133

L’Arlot’s 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Petits Plets (second wine of their Forets St.-Georges) leads with pungent aromatic intensity of holly berry, cedar, juniper berry, and huckleberry. The palate impression is as pungent and piquant as those aromas led me to anticipate, and is accompanied by considerable gum-numbing astringency. As with the corresponding Petit Arlot, there is sap and primary juiciness as well as some alluring spice in the finish, but it’s harder in this instance for them to break free of the tannins. I would plan tentatively on drinking this within the next 4-6 years; but perhaps the tannins will resolve themselves and the wine eventually prove itself more appealing, knitted, and longer-lived. Olivier Leriche reports having harvested more robust material in 2008 than in 2007, but notes that a rigorous triage for rot was needed in each instance, and that he took the precaution of significantly reducing in both vintages his usual percentage of stems and whole clusters. Harvest in 2008 was relatively rapid, and concluded October 9, but Leriche notes that its progression was determined by the extent of botrytis incursions rather than by the parcels’ ripeness. The botrytis in 2008 was more insidious, he maintained – echoing comments of several other growers – and the sorting unusually arduous, in that it frequently affected individual berries within the clusters, while triage in 2007 more often consisted of either accepting or rejecting an entire, relatively uniformly healthy or botrytis-afflicted bunch. Surprisingly, several l’Arlot 2008s – Clos du Chapeau, Clos de l’Arlot, les Suchots – finished malo already their first winter; whereas others were protracted and erratic. I tasted the final assemblages just before they were sulfured and bottled, which Leriche – in common with quite a few Burgundy vintners – argues is the best time to taste red Burgundies until after they have had several years in bottle. Numerous agents and U.S. importers including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352-1100, and a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300