Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Reserve, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

維勒朱麗安酒莊教皇新堡珍藏紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1716

The awesome 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve is at the top of the heap in the vintage, and is world-class stuff. Sharing lots of similarities to the Les Trois Sources (they come from similar terroirs), it has another level of concentration and density, with incredible liquid rock, blueberry, violets, licorice and bouquet garni-like aromas and flavors. A rock star on the palate, it has full-bodied power, perfect balance, a seamless, elegant texture and blockbuster mid-palate depth. Coming from 100-year-old Grenache vines and pure sand soils, it’s a tour de force that will have two-plus decades of life.

There are 500 cases of the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve. At 16.4% natural alcohol, the pleasure police will no doubt suggest this wine is hot and out of balance. However, nothing could be further from the truth as there is not a trace of heat in this modern day legend in traditional Chateauneuf du Pape. Yields were under 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the vines utilized for the Reserve were planted in 1904. Virtually all Grenache with the balance probably including Syrah and Mourvedre, this is a field blend. An inky/purple color is accompanied by notes of raspberries, blueberries and blackberries. There is a sappy precision to its formidably endowed, massive mouthfeel. Sadly, this profound Chateauneuf du Pape is nearly impossible to find. It should evolve easily for 20-25 years. Those wines under the name DAUMEN are from Jean-Paul Daumen’s negociant operation. Some of them actually emerge from estate fruit that he has declassified from his vineyards. They are limited production, but exceptionally impressive cuvees, so consumers take note. Daumen is one of the most meticulous viticulturists and winemakers in Chateauneuf du Pape. From his cellars in the appellation’s northern sector known as Gres, he has long fashioned some extraordinary Chateauneuf du Papes as well as a small amount of high octane Cotes du Rhone from some of the oldest vines owned by his family. For starters, Daumen’s 2011s are some of the finest wines of the southern Rhone. Yields for both the estate and negociant cuvees averaged a mere 26 hectoliters per hectare, which is well under two tons of fruit per acre. Never one to rest on his already impressive laurels, Daumen has basically renamed his Chateauneuf du Papes to reflect the parcels from which they emanate. As for the new estate Chateauneuf du Papes, no Reserve cuvee was produced, so there are only two offerings. Various American importers, including: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504; Route des Vins Imports, LLC, Charleston, SC; tel. (843) 737-0301; VinConnect Inc., CA; tel. (415) 857-5740

Rock-star stuff that could merit a tripe digit score sometime in the future, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve knocks it out of the park with its massive, decadent, ripe and concentrated profile. Showing plenty of cassis, spring flowers, mint, licorice and ground herbs, it’s a hedonistic and blockbuster-styled effort that will drink well for two decades. One of my favorite producers, Vieille Julienne is run by the brilliant Jean-Paul Daumen. Coming all from a cool, mostly sandy terroir located in the northern part of the appellation, these traditionally made wines possess singular characters that have both richness and depth on the palate, as well as notable elegance and freshness. They epitomize this tiny terroir and are more Vieille Julienne than they are Chateauneuf du Pape. For this tasting, we focused on his traditional Chateauneuf (which is now broken up into two cuvees, the Trois Sources and the Hauts Lieux) and his Reserve bottling, which is produced only when this tiny plot of vines offers something unique to say. Looking first at Jean-Paul’s traditional Chateauneuf (made up until 2009), it is always a rough blend of close to 90% Grenache, with smaller components of Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise and Cinsault. Completely destemmed, it’s aged in older foudre and never sees any new wood. While it comes from a cooler terroir in the northern part of the appellation (and Jean-Paul favors harvesting on the earlier side), it never lacks for richness and is a concentrated, structured effort that benefits from cellar time. Moving to the Reserve bottling, this cuvee comes from a single plot of 100+-year-old vines, planted in what looks like pure beach sand. It’s also slightly more Grenache dominated than the classic cuvee, with the blend containing 90-95% Grenache and the balance Cinsault and Syrah. It too is completely destemmed and aged all in older foudres. First made in 1994, it’s only produced when Jean-Paul feels that the plot has something special to say. Available in the U.S. through Vin Connect Inc., Tel. (415) 857-5740; www.vinconnect.com

The same can be said about the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve and it offers incredible cassis, toasted bread, bouquet garni and earth aromas and flavors to go with full-bodied richness, incredible concentration and a seamless, thrillingly pure texture that’s hard to believe. It’s easily the greatest wine I’ve tasted from this vintage. One of my favorite producers, Vieille Julienne is run by the brilliant Jean-Paul Daumen. Coming all from a cool, mostly sandy terroir located in the northern part of the appellation, these traditionally made wines possess singular characters that have both richness and depth on the palate, as well as notable elegance and freshness. They epitomize this tiny terroir and are more Vieille Julienne than they are Chateauneuf du Pape. For this tasting, we focused on his traditional Chateauneuf (which is now broken up into two cuvees, the Trois Sources and the Hauts Lieux) and his Reserve bottling, which is produced only when this tiny plot of vines offers something unique to say. Looking first at Jean-Paul’s traditional Chateauneuf (made up until 2009), it is always a rough blend of close to 90% Grenache, with smaller components of Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise and Cinsault. Completely destemmed, it’s aged in older foudre and never sees any new wood. While it comes from a cooler terroir in the northern part of the appellation (and Jean-Paul favors harvesting on the earlier side), it never lacks for richness and is a concentrated, structured effort that benefits from cellar time. Moving to the Reserve bottling, this cuvee comes from a single plot of 100+-year-old vines, planted in what looks like pure beach sand. It’s also slightly more Grenache dominated than the classic cuvee, with the blend containing 90-95% Grenache and the balance Cinsault and Syrah. It too is completely destemmed and aged all in older foudres. First made in 1994, it’s only produced when Jean-Paul feels that the plot has something special to say. Available in the U.S. through Vin Connect Inc., Tel. (415) 857-5740; www.vinconnect.com