This has the typical combination of power and freshness that makes this appellation stand out. Stacks of Mediterranean herb aromas alongside the restrained black fruit character. Full-bodied, but not at all heavy, this easily carries its ample load of fine tannins thanks, in part, to the fresh acidity of the vintage. Sustainable. Drink or hold.

The 2019 Cairanne is redolent of blueberries and blackberries, with just enough of an earthy undercurrent to lend a savory edge. Medium to full-bodied, supple and easy to drink, with a licorice note on the finish, it may be consumed now and over the next few years.

The 2001 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne is a rustic, earthy effort exhibiting notions of sweet and sour cherries intermixed with dusty, loamy soil notes. Although too terroir-driven for my tastes, readers who like their Cotes du Rhones boisterous and earthy will enjoy it more than I did. Importer: Appellation Imports, Annapolis Junction, MD; tel. (410) 880-4790

Proprietor Max Aubert, a well-known name in the southern Rhone Valley, has produced a textbook Cotes du Rhone, with plenty of cherry/kirsch and herbes de Provence-scented and flavored fruit. The wine is medium-bodied, soft, and attractive. Drink it over the next 1-2 years.Importer: Franklin Selections, Annapolis Junction, MD; tel. (410) 880-4790

Here is an excellent 1990. The 1990 Cairanne-Cotes du Rhone (which includes 40% Syrah in the blend) exhibits a rich, berry and herb-scented nose, ripe, lush flavors, good purity, and a soft, round finish. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. A Peter Vezan Selection, various American importers.