Opening in the glass with a pretty bouquet of raspberries, cherries, licorice and spices, the 2018 Chiroubles from Domaine Cheysson is medium to full-bodied, with a delicate core of fruit and chewy structuring tannins.

The Cheysson 2010 Chiroubles is scented and brightly informed with red currant, wild strawberry, and sour cherry accompanied by their high-toned distilled counterparts. These are then laced with a bite and prickle of horseradish that continues on an otherwise sleek palate and all the way through a refreshing and invigorating finish in which a lick of salt enhances the mouthwatering inclination to take renewed sips. I would plan to savor this Chiroubles over the next 2-3 years, favoring it in its youth. (For another contrast in vinification, see my note elsewhere in this report on Large's Morgon, which is bottled under his own name, not as part of the Domaine Cheysson.) I finally had the chance to visit Jean-Pierre Large at his dramatically-situated estate (also known as Clos les Farges) high up in Chiroubles, which consists of some hundred separate parcels and whose vaulted cellar dates back to the monks of Cluny. That this appellation is going to be hit by hail -not every year, but certainly every second or third year,- is simply a grim given, says Large. This was also my first opportunity to taste his late-bottled cuvees raised in small (largely American-) oak barrels, but Large's tank-raised basic cuvee (which he refers to but does not label as "Traditionelle") is his most delightful and well as interesting. Given that, I can't help but wonder wistfully what sort of results this grower would achieve if the tiny-berried fruit from the appropriately named Les Roches (source of his La Precieuse Vieilles Vignes bottling) or that of the south-facing Cote Rotie (which informs his La Secrete) were treated to that same pristine, gentle, whole-cluster, relatively cool tank vinification. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Cynthia Hurley French Wines 617-965-4251

After being delighted to discover Jean Pierre Large’s wines with his 2006 (reviewed in issue 178) I somehow, reprehensibly, missed out on tasting either of the two subsequent vintages, but the Domaine Cheysson 2009 Chiroubles confirms the existence of major talent, not to mention the presumption of excellent terroir. Red raspberry and red currant mingle with black tea and peony in the nose, then combine vividly – right down to the tart, invigoratingly bitter crunch of their seeds – on the palate, with smoky, saline, and alkaline accents. There is a saline, exuberantly tart berry-brightness to the finish that positively exhilarates. The 2006 was still lovely 12 months ago, and I would expect this exceptional value 2009 to be worth following for 5-6 years. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Cynthia Hurley French Wines 617-965-4251