The 2009 A Cote, which is a vin de pays made of equal parts Grenache and Merlot, offers loads of fruit. The ideal bistro red, it can be served chilled or quaffed down with your favorite plate of charcuterie. One of the most intelligent young Chateauneuf du Pape turks is Laurent Charvin. As I have written before, consumers are lucky that the entire production here is now estate bottled as opposed to being sold to negociants as it was prior to 1990. I always find Charvin’s wines come closest to those of Chateau Rayas, although the Charvin cuvees are slightly more concentrated.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2008 Vin de Pays a Cote is composed of equal parts Grenache and Merlot. It is a solidly made, rustic red exhibiting red and black fruit characteristics intermixed with notions of herbs and earth. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Coatesville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; fax (610) 486-6452

I don’t know why Laurent Charvin never shows me this wine when I taste with him as the 2007 is a brilliant effort. A blend of 42% Grenache, from 60-year-old and 45-year-old parcels, and 58% Merlot from much younger vines, aged for 18 months in concrete tanks, and bottled without filtration, it represents a gorgeous bargain. A deep ruby/purple-tinged color is followed by sweet black cherry, spice box, pepper, and unsmoked cigar tobacco notes. The wine possesses a ripe, round texture, and a long, lusty finish. This is pure hedonism at its best combined with the unmistakable character of Provence. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Coatesville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800