A superb bubbly, almost entirely comprised of Chardonnay, with 2% Pinot Blanc. It’s super-sophisticated, with that elegantly dry, crisp, yeasty feeling associated only with the best sparkling wines. Shows its California origins in the ripe lemon, lime and strawberry flavors that flatter, then pull back into a closure of minerals and spice. A great wine, although the mousse could be finer.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 94