The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru la Truffière was totally closed on the nose when I tasted it from vat. The palate is nicely balanced with leesy, citrus fruit and moderate weight, perhaps showing the acidity on the finish that will lend it more race than the la Garenne once in bottle. This may merit a higher evaluation once in bottle.

Silky and polished throughout, the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet La Truffiere stands out for its silkiness, inner perfume and persistence. Dried pears and white flowers are some of the notes that linger on the finish. This is the most understated of Bruno Colin’s 2010s. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Bruno Colin reported that in 2010 his yields were down 10-15%, but adds some of his oldest plots were hit even harder, and came in 25-30% lower than normal. Overall, this is a solid set of wines, with plenty of vintage and site-specific character. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin Le Charmois and Chassagne villages were bottled before the 2011 harvest, while the rest of the wines were bottled in March 2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 299-2600, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet La Truffiere shows lovely tension and pure, lively minerality. This is one of the brighter more focused of the 2009s here, but there is plenty of depth and richness in the glass. Bright, high-toned aromatics, crushed rocks and slate add lift and energy on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Bruno Colin’s 2009s show quite a bit of freshness for the year. The harvest began early, on September 5. The malos were finished in between December 2009 and March 2010. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet were bottled before the 2010 harvest, while the rest of the 2009s were bottled in March 2011. I tasted the 2010 Bourgogne Aligote, Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet from steel, while the remainder of the 2010s were in barrel. Colin planned to rack the rest of the 2010s in July and bottle in the winter of 2011/2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524