The 1999 Muscat d'Alsace Riquewihr offers delightful orange blossom and mineral aromas. Medium-bodied and plump, this is a rich, raspberry and candied orange-flavored offering. It is satin-textured, fat, and enormously appealing. Drink this lovely aperitif wine over the course of the next two years. Importers: European Cellars (Eric Solomon), New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949. Also, a Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 275-1200; Branded New England, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 501-1256; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585

I have long had a weakness for Alsace's dry Muscat. Bott-Geyl's 1995 Muscat Riquewihr is an explosive fruit-cocktail-scented and flavored wine with medium body, crisp, dry, concentrated flavors, a glorious perfume, and a dry, refreshing finish. This wine should drink well for 1-2 years.Bott-Geyl has become one of Alsace's most fashionable young wine producers. Three consistent characteristics of these wines are 1) purity and concentration, 2) multi-layered textures - the result of extended lees contact for 10-12 months, and 3) faithful interpretation of each varietal's characteristics. The wines reviewed in this segment performed exceptionally well, and, for their quality, are reasonably-priced. Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910.