The 2019 Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Boutière is terrific, wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, woodsmoke and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, muscular and concentrated, with rich, powdery tannins and succulent acids, it will reward at least a few years' bottle age.

The 2017 Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Boutière reveals an appealing bouquet of cherries, candied peel, rich soil tones and a light touch of oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and tensile, with a chalkier, tighter-knit profile than the more gourmand Fussière, with tangy acids and good length on the finish. Since these vines are pruned in cordon and escaped frost the last few years, yields have been relatively consistent.

From bottle, the 2016 Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Boutière is showing very well, wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of cherries, spices and rich soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with excellent depth at the core, juicy acids and a long, pure and decidedly mineral finish.

The 2015 Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Boutiere, from 70- and 80-year-old vines that touch Santenay Clos Rousseau on the other side of the wall, has a voluptuous, quite sensual bouquet with ample redcurrant jus and crushed strawberry notes, even a hint of fresh fig in the background. The palate is rounded, quite concentrated, fleshy with sappy red berry fruit, sous-bois and black instead of red fruit towards the refined finish. This is lovely and just like in 2014, possibly has the edge over the Les Fussières.